Day Three: Black Apple.

Okay…Today was TOTALLY different than yesterday. I can’t even begin to describe the night/day factor. I was up until 3:45 fighting jetlag and the memory of Kibera. It was an awful night of no resolution.

Today was a distraction/errands sort of day. I went to the Kenyan version of Wal-Mart-Mall.

The reason: My laptop battery died. 

Full health, 100%, then BOOM! Empty. (They say “your battery went flat” here) This will be bad here as electricity can be hard to come by. I lamented my crisis to George, “Yeah, like I’m going to find an Apple Store in Africa.” 

“Actually there are two across town.” He laughed.

I took a taxi to this modern mall, that is cooler than many I’ve seen in America. Think Galleria level, but smaller and Euro/Indian/African. You won’t believe me, but the Cure’s “Close to Me” was playing on the sound system when I entered the mall. The only American-only stores I saw was the Converse Chucks store and the movie theater. I was tempted to watch a movie, but my plans went south when I found the apple corner. Not store. Corner.

They sold Apple gear, but no warranty work. I doubted they could help, but I hoped. When I approached the two guys about the battery replacement, they showed me the glass case with 9 items. I doubted, but one of the mystery apple items was my battery. YES! But the price: over double of the US. NO!!!

I couldn’t justify that much. It was the 1/3 the price of a new machine. So I complained and left. I browsed the mall which made me feel very normal. (I’m a consumerist whether I like it or not.) I ate pizza and drank a diet Coke. (Coca-Cola Light) Then I went back to browse the bookstore that the Apple corner was in. The one guy remaining at the corner called me over. 

It turns out that the dude who left has a battery like I need. He will only charge me half of the price, but I can’t do the transaction through the store. I said I was interested and after 2 hours of phone calls reminiscent of drug trafficking scenes from movies and a meeting location set in the coffee shop I met with “battery man” to buy my off the grid part. He gave me a cool story with it about an American with a broken machine, blah, blah, blah. I tested the gear it worked. I paid him under the table and we were gone. 

Three days in Africa and I’m into the black market. I’m so out of my league.

That is the only obscure story, but here’s what else “happened” today. D and I figured out a chat schedule. I was “shining” one lady said after our chat. I just got back from  dinner with 4 missionary families and their stories were too good to broadcast. I’m saving them for the private reserve. The chicken was on the bone. Everyone picked their bones clean. I left the knuckles and skin alone, but ate all of the meat. Be proud for me.

While I have a moment, let me tell you about Kenyans. You know how people say southerners are nice? Or so-and-so people are friendly? I might put money that people all over the world are RUDE compared to Kenyans. The warmth and smiles you receive from eye contact and conversation is like nothing I’ve ever experienced.

Hardest thing that happened today: My driver. I told him I went to Kibera yesterday. He told me he LIVED in Kibera and had for 10 years. Started a family there and now had a  wife and three daughters. This totally really broke me. He didn’t look like the people I saw yesterday. I may have passed his house. One of his girls could be in my photo album. I may have seen his wife and baby. I had to confront there in passenger seat the thing I/we do. We dehumanize the people. We try to make them “other” or scenery; somehow bound to the place. His name is Ignateous (Most Kenyans have a tribal name and a Christian name. Ignateous was the name of Pope from way back. His tribal name meant “morning,” because he was born in the morning). We had a wonderful conversation. He wasn’t dirty or smelly like that place was. Actually his shirt was better pressed than mine and I think his outfit was more stylish. He lives there because it is affordable. He told me how they share an open hole latrine with their neighbors. They buy water for 2 shillings a liter. They use 60 liters a day. (That’s 50 cents of water per day). I felt shameful buying a battery for a computer that probably cost more than he makes in a month.

I was thankful for a western diversion day. Kibera really messed me up. I’m still trying figure out God, me, and that place. (See I did it again: “that place,” not people). 

I have no good answers.